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Review by Nancy J.
Turner, Ph.D.
4/15/2010 (Review of pre-release version)
This is a true "down to earth", organic book: an informative
and fascinating presentation of a diversity of prime edible
wild plants from one of the foremost practicing experts on
the continent. Both John Kallas' experience and his
personality shine through on every page. The book is written
in a fun and easily accessible style. It's almost as if you
are sitting there with him and having him show you and tell
you what you need to know. You're sharing in his
experiences. Accounts of trial and error, discovery and
adventure, light-hearted storytelling and serious reflection
are interspersed with good, solid botanical descriptions,
and well-researched details of the nutrition, phytochemistry
and ecology of the plants being discussed. One of the
highlights of the book is the abundance of helpful and truly
beautiful colour illustrations — sometimes multiples
— for each type of plant under discussion, showing its
different growth stages and its key features, often together
with delectable looking dishes that use it as an ingredient.
Imagine, for example, a salad replete with a host of wild
greens — baby greens from field mustard, amaranth
leaves, wood sorrel, borage — scattered overtop with
the bright red-purple flowers of wild sweetpea, and pale
pink flowers of marsh mallow; it's hard to imagine any dish
looking more tempting.
Following a compelling personal account from John about how
he became interested in edible wild plants and ended up
making a career from teaching others about through his "Wild
Food Adventures," the main body of the book is organized in
three main sections. Part I, the introductory section,
provides an overview of edible wild plants, general
harvesting techniques, and advice for the novice (and not so
novice) wild plant gatherer. Part II describes the plants
themselves, not in alphabetical or botanical order, but in
groups according to taste (which in some cases do correspond
with clusters of related species). The third section, Part
III, The Potential of Wild Foods takes you beyond the
basics, reflecting on some of the philosophical topics
around wild foods, like why we should all be out harvesting
and eating wild foods — and why we should be bringing
our children and grandchildren with us when we do it. (It
helps combat the Nature deficit disorder trend that
predominates in many parts of North America, where children
are increasingly glued to their electronic games and
computers and are simply not spending enough time outdoors
to be learning about and learning to love the natural
world). Also provided are informative sections on various
dietary aspects of different wild foods, including
discussions of some compounds that we need to watch out for,
and of the wide range of beneficial nutrients these wild
foods yield: from A (Vitamin A that is) to Zinc. There is
also a detailed table, compiled from many sources, of the
different nutrient values of 100 grams of various wild
greens.
No matter where our ancestors lived in the world, chances
are they were eating many of the foods described in this
book: what better reason could there be for us to try them
out? They give us a sense of personal history and connection
to those who came before. Yet, John points out a host of
other great reasons, from improving our heath to providing
educational opportunities for students, as to why wild
foraging should be a national activity. Perhaps my favorite
part of the last section is John's proposal for an official
new term for The scholarly Study of Wild Food Plants:
agriotrophytology. He carefully explains its "greek-ified"
derivation: from agrio ("wild"), troph ("food"), phyto
("plant") and logos ("study of"). I'm not so sure this term
is going to catch on, but if it does, Dr. Kallas certainly
qualifies as an agriotophytologist!
This book is entertaining and enjoyable to read, but it's
not intended to be an "armchair" book; far from it. This is
a book that lures you out into the fields, woods and swamps.
It impels you to don your gumboots and your hat, seize your
shovel, shears, baskets, trays and buckets and head out into
the weediest part of your garden, or into the yonder
countryside in search of those wild gastronomic treasures.
And it draws you towards the kitchen, the chopping board,
the grater and the grinder, to take that large old wooden
salad bowl from the top shelf, rub it with wild garlic and
fill it up with green delicacies to serve to your friends
and family. It stimulates all your senses: your eyes,
imagining searching for the light green colour of succulent
young leaves or the bright gold sumptuousness of a dandelion
in full bloom; your ears, listening for the sound of running
water or maybe the calls of frogs or birds that serve to
indicate special gathering places; your nose, detecting
those subtle aromas of wild mints or the pungent mustards;
your fingers, touching and gently plucking the most tender
shoots and buds, and your tongue, receiving new tastes and
textures never before experienced. If you need any sort of
motivation to get out into the fresh air, to try something
new, to get some more adventure into your life, this is a
book that will provide that spark and inspiration. This book
is indeed, as John intends it to be, "a springboard, a
resource that will help you connect to that outdoor world,"
and, from my experience, that will bring you a life of
endless pleasure and fascination.
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